Pompeii vs Herculaneum Which City Should You Visit?

Today, the archaeological sites of Pompeii attract visitors from around the world. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the most visited ancient sites in the world and the most visited historical site in Italy. You don’t have to love ancient ruins as much as I do to appreciate them because they offer so much to discover.

What many visitors don’t know is that there is another ancient Roman city with the same fate as Pompeii nearby. I’m talking about Herculaneum. Both of these are incredible sites worthy of a visit, but which is better? Having been to both numerous times, I have my preference. Here are my thoughts on the Pompeii vs Herculaneum debate.

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The Tale of Two Ancient Cities

Both Pompeii and Herculaneum were thriving towns in what is now the region of Campania during the Roman Empire. It’s hard to imagine today that these places were once bursting with life and activity. People lived and worked here, unaware of the danger looming over them.

But as you walk along the streets, you’ll see that it’s not much different than what we see today. There are remnants of homes, bars, shops, and roads very similar to what we know today. You can still see the indents left by the wheels of the chariots on the stoned streets. The baths, public toilets and drains are pretty fascinating. 

Pompeii vs Herculaneum – what to expect

Today, these ancient Roman cities provide a fascinating insight into daily life before the catastrophic eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 A.D. While both sites offer remarkable glimpses into the past, they offer distinctly different ways to experience ancient Roman life.

Pompeii is a large city and sprawling site. Here, you’ll find large spaces and more iconic sites like the recently reopened House of the Vettii with its lavish mosaics. However, Herculaneum’s compact size and well-preserved buildings offer more intimate glimpses of more complete ruins, including rare surviving upper floors and the remarkable Villa of the Papyri.

Vesuvius’s eruption and destruction

The volcano we now know as Mt. Vesuvius had erupted several times before the devastating event of 79 A.D. Even Roman writers have told stories of how common the tremors were in the area. A massive earthquake in 62 A.D. even damaged many buildings in Pompeii. The destruction was extensive, and not all the damage was repaired when Vesuvius erupted. 

Several warning signs were mostly ignored in the days before the eruption. Since people were so accustomed to them, they probably didn’t fully understand the danger. Tremors and quakes became more frequent in the days leading up to the eruption. Nobody seemed alarmed, and the volcano erupted as everyone went about their daily tasks.

During the time of the eruption, both cities were buried under metres of pyroclastic flow. The pyroclastic material affected each seaside city in different ways, leading to varying levels of preservation. This is another interesting aspect to consider when deciding on the Pompeii vs Herculaneum question.

In terms of distance from the Gulf of Naples, Herculaneum was actually closer to the volcano. It was buried in a different way, which helped preserve more of its structures. While Pompeii’s famous casts of Pompeii victims tell one story of the tragedy, Herculaneum’s preservation of skeletal remains in the boat houses tells another equally moving tale.

Much of what we know about this event comes from Pliny the Younger’s writings, who saw the event that also took the life of his uncle Pliny the Elder. Pliny writes about the large, unusual cloud that appeared over Pompeii, which prompted his uncle to part from the Bay of Naples on a rescue mission. He never made it back.

According to experts, Pompeii and Herculaneum were buried under six or seven metres of ash and debris during the eruption, which lasted about 24 hours. They were abandoned and forgotten for the next 1500+ years.

Rediscovery and serious excavations

Eventually, Pompeii and Herculaneum were forgotten as they lay buried under layers of ash and debris for centuries. The architect Domenico Fontana accidentally discovered the buried city while constructing an underground aqueduct in the late 16th century. It’s unclear why the discovery was kept quiet and no excavations were conducted.

The cities remained forgotten until the 18th century when new excavations revealed their secrets. Pompeii’s excavation started in earnest in 1748, following the rediscovery of Herculaneum in 1738 and the renewed interest in both sites. It wasn’t till 1763 that the unknown city emerging from the ground was identified as Pompeii. Serious excavations continue today, revealing new houses and structures on both sites.

Charles of Bourbon, King of Naples at the time, took great interest in the excavations and had many artifacts from both cities brought to Naples. You can still see them at the Archaeological Museum of Naples.

Today, archeologists continue to make discoveries, allowing us to learn more about the people that lived here. It’s estimated that only 25% of Herculaneum has been uncovered, the rest buried under the current city. It’s estimated that about three-quarters of Pompeii has been uncovered to date. 

Pompeii vs Herculaneum: what to see

Visiting Pompeii and Herculaneum is an incredible experience. You are walking through the same streets that so many people did every day over 2,000 years ago. They lived and worked here. They shopped, partied, lived and died just like we do today.  

Both sites shows us how Roman cities were laid out and decorated, especially in the homes of wealthy residents. We can learn a lot about how they lived, ate and entertained themselves by exploring what’s left behind.

Pompeii

Here, you can admire the fascinating indents of ancient wheel ruts left in the streets and walk along the streets lined with buildings and private villas. As the site is larger, there are more extensive public buildings and spaces, including bathhouses, brothels, public toilets and shops.

Pompeii has a large forum, which was the city’s main square and commercial center. There is also the oldest surviving Roman amphitheatre, gladiatorial school, gym and a necropolis. In Pompeii, you’ll also find plaster casts of victims and many items recovered here, including vases, sculptures and household items. 

Herculaneum

The site of the ancient city of Herculaneum is much smaller and easier to explore. The modern city sits right on top of it, and many people living around the area can overlook the site from their balconies. After Pompeii’s destruction, the site was eventually built over, and only a small portion of it has been uncovered. It’s wild to stand there, overlooking the ancient site with the modern city on top of it and the volcano in the background.

Herculaneum features better-preserved private homes with intact upper floors, doors, staircases, tables and shelves. You can explore homes with mosaics, courtyards and marble decorations, as well as shops, bakeries and temples. The most chilling are the skeletal remains in the boat houses of the people who sought refuge here. It’s believed that they might have been waiting for rescue by water, but they didn’t make it out in time.

Pompeii vs Herculaneum: Practical tips

When visiting Pompeii and/or Herculaneum, keep in mind that these are archeological sites. Be mindful of the closed-off area, and don’t accidentally damage anything. There is a lot of walking involved, which can be tiring, especially on a hot day. There is not a lot of shade or places to rest while exploring. 

That is a lot of walking on uneven ancient streets. I recommend wearing flat and comfortable shoes while visiting. Consider bringing bottled water, sunscreen, a hat, sunglasses, or an umbrella during the rainy season. Drones are not permitted inside without permits, but you can bring a camera. As much of the ground is uneven, a tripod might be more of a hindrance than an asset. 

How much time do you need to explore

Pompeii: The site in Pompeii is approximately 44 hectares (about 108 acres). I recommend at least a half day to see the main spots. To see most of it would take you most of the day, so plan accordingly. The site attracts typical tourist crowds, especially during peak season, so I recommend visiting in the fall, winter or spring instead of summer.

Herculaneum: Herculaneum (Ercolano Scavi) is about 4 hectares (9 acres), making the site more compact. Its smaller size means you need less time to visit (I recommend about 2 hours), and you can get closer to the mosaics, courtyards and walls. There are fewer visitors here, meaning you can have a more intimate experience without tripping over people.

How to get here

Pompeii is located about 25 km south of Naples and about 242 km from Rome. While you can make it a day trip from Rome to Pompeii, it ends up being a very long day. We recommend staying in Naples or the nearby Amalfi Coast towns and using that as your base. 

Visiting Pompeii and Herculaneum can be done in one day, but it can get tiring, especially on a hot day. Herculaneum is located between Naples and Pompeii and can be easily added to the itinerary. 

By Train
Via Porta Marina and Piazza Esedra:
Take the Circumvesuviana Napoli-Sorrento Train (stop at Pompei Villa dei Misteri) 

Circumvesuviana from Via Piazza Anfiteatro:
Take the Circumvesuviana Napoli-Poggiomarino Train (stop at Pompei Santuario)
FS (National Railway) Napoli – Salerno Line (stop at Pompei)

By Bus
SITA Bus Lines – from Naples and Salerno
CSTP Bus Lines – no. 4 from Salerno
CSTP Bus Lines – no. 50 from Salerno (This rapid bus takes the autostrada.)

By Car
Autostrada A3 Napoli-Salerno (exit Pompei West)

The best way to visit

For Pompeii, consider taking a guided tour. A group tour or even an audio guide can provide valuable historical context as you walk around. Herculaneum’s compact size makes self-guided exploration more manageable, and it’s just a short walk from the ticket office.

PRO TIP: Plan your visit using the virtual Google Street View, and download the free Pompeii guide PDF that provides an overview of all of the excavations.

Pompeii vs Herculaneum: Which should you visit?

Both cities offer a unique opportunity to step back in time. They are both like a time capsule of life in the first century A.D. Which one is better depends largely on how much time you have, when you’ll visit and what you want from the experience.

While both are ancient sites worth visiting, I feel that Herculaneum offers a more satisfying experience for visitors, especially if you have limited time. Its smaller size, better-preserved buildings, and fewer visitors make it a more manageable and often more rewarding choice. You’ll find remarkably preserved everyday objects, intact architecture, and a more intimate atmosphere without the overwhelming nature of Pompeii’s extensive site.

However, if you have enough time, visiting both sites offers the most complete picture of life in these ancient Roman cities. Just remember that exploring both requires careful planning and likely a full day of walking.